The Ultimate Beach Guide to Santa Teresa, Costa Rica for Families
Wander Here: Santa Teresa, Costa Rica
Before we visited Santa Teresa on the Nicoya Peninsula of Costa Rica, I was a little nervous about the beaches…more specifically the water! Our kids can all swim, but the Pacific can be a bit wild, and this area of Costa Rica is a world-wide known surf destination for a reason. The waves are no joke, not to mention the rip-tides and currents. But the wild beauty drew me in and once I was smitten, there was no going back. So I did a lot of research beforehand, and a lot of exploring during our month stay, and I’m excited to share all about the beaches of the area, as well as some tips for how we stayed safe with four kiddos 9 and under.
Playa Curu
One of our absolute favorite beaches for swimming and playing, Playa Curu, with its tan sand and adjacent Nature Reserve, is a little off-the-beaten-path paradise. About an hour’s drive from Santa Teresa, It’s found within the Curu Wildlife Refuge along the southwest part of the peninsula…just about 20 km south of Tambor and 20 km north of Montezuma. After exploring 15 or so beaches along the peninsula, it’s in our top three in terms of safety, ease with the kids, beauty…it really has it all! The beach is nice and wide, and was nearly empty the whole time we were there, a huge perk of being in a less touristy part of the country. It curves a bit, forming a slight cove, which gives some protection in terms of waves, although there were still plenty of waves that the kids LOVED jumping in. The beach is backed by gorgeous palms and the water is the perfect temperature to cool off from the heat. Although you have to pay to enter the Reserve in order to reach this beach, it’s totally worth it because not only are there amazing hiking trails, but there are bathrooms, showers and even a soda (Tico restaurant) where you can grab a traditional bite to eat! Keep your eyes peeled for wildlife, and you’ll see lots.
Playa Cabo Blanco
Playa Cabo Blanco is a part sandy / part rocky beach found deep within the Cabo Blanco Natural Reserve. The hike is about 4km, with an elevation gain of over 650 feet, out and back and not for the faint of heart. Our four kids, ages 6, 6, 9, and 9 completed it just fine, but it was challenging and a bit long (took us over 4 hours total, not including time at the beach). It costs $10 to enter the Reserve, and there are bathrooms at the entrance, but after that you’re at the mercy of nature because the only facilities once you get to the beach are some primitive outdoor showers to rinse off and a few picnic tables. At high tide (the only time we visited) most of the sand is covered up, and smooth, grey, white and black rocks cover the narrow coastline. Being on the tip of the peninsula with no protection from the vast Pacific, the waves are pretty rough, and between that and the rocks we didn’t venture in for a swim; however, we really enjoyed shell and rock scavenging, watching the wildlife and soaking in the view. I would recommend timing the hike to arrive at low tide, but even then the water may be too rough for swimming, especially for kids. Here’s a great map to give a better idea of the area of Cabo Blanco.
Playa Montezuma
Playa Montezuma is for sure one of the most beautiful beaches of the Nicoya peninsula! Located in the small village of Montezuma, the coastline is curved and rocky, with tan sand and of course - a backdrop of vivid green palms and almendro trees. This beach is not so great for swimming as the waves are pretty powerful and there can be rip currents. However, it’s great for walking, seashell hunting, jumping/playing in the surf, sandcastle building and just relaxing and enjoying the beautiful view. I highly recommend grabbing a fruit shake in town and walking down to enjoy a few hours of breathtaking beauty, the sound of waves and the ocean air. We had to practically drag our kiddos away from the beach - they loved it so much. There are also some great lunch spots nearby to grab a bite to eat and cool off.
Playa Las Manchas / Playa Las Rocas / Playa Los Cedros
I grouped these three beaches together because they are fairly close and somewhat similar to each other. Heading south out of Montezuma toward the small village of Cabuya, you’ll come across these beauties. They are close enough together that we had a bit of trouble at first, figuring out which one was which. With light tan sand and rocky coastline, these beaches are pretty remote, so you won’t find many people, and those who do go are mostly locals (a major pro in our book!). The waves and currents can be pretty rough, so use caution in the water, especially with kids. We spent an afternoon at Playa Los Cedros, jumping in the shallow part of the surf, playing in the sand and watching the surfers. Like many beaches in the Nicoya Peninsula, there are no bathrooms so come prepared :) Jon ended up driving one of the little girls to Butterfly Brewing Co. to use the facilities and came away with a pack of ginger beer to enjoy. Definitely make a stop there if you enjoy craft beer!
Playa Mal Pais / Playa Mar Azul
Sitting just south of Playa Carmen and to the north of Bahia Barrigona, Playa Mal Pais + Playa Mar Azul are a tide pool lover’s paradise. While they’re fairly easy to find, 4x4 might be helpful, especially during rainy season. At low tide, there are tidepools of all sizes and shapes great for scoping out sea life and just chilling in the water. We spent an afternoon there finding shells, sea urchins, slugs, fish and snails. While the tide is down, it’s also great for romping and climbing around on the massive rocks. The views are stunning, especially at sunset, and as the tide comes up the surfer’s come out to play. We spent an evening there watching the sun make it’s journey to the edge of the sea and enjoying the low key vibes of other folks there for the show. Just keep in mind and be aware - the tide can come up fast and can be dicey as the waves start to hit the rocks. You can check the tide schedule here.
Playa Los Suecos / Playa Cuevas / Secret Beach
Secret Beach, as it’s affectionately called, is a charming little beach that has a special place in our hearts. We ended up going there three different times, and still never tired of it because there is so much to discover! If you head out of Santa Teresa, and take the dirt road toward Mal Pais, you’ll start to ask yourself if you’ve gone too far juuuust as you come upon a little fishing village on your right. There will be little path off to the left that leads to a tiny gravel/dirt parking lot. Oftentimes there is a self-appointed parking lot attendant who will watch over your car and belongings if you offer a small payment. Once parked, find the path that goes through a gate at the end of the parking lot, and follow it through the jungle just a hundred yards or so until it opens up on a beautiful, sandy beach and the Pacific. It feels almost as if you’re on a deserted island. One of the times we went there, we came out onto the beach to find a guy who thought he really was on a deserted island, having just hung his swim trunks on a tree branch and headed out into the surf! I’ve never seen anyone move as fast as he did when he saw our four kiddos emerge from the jungle, grabbing his shorts and hiding in the trees haha. So awkward, but funny! Sorry, dude.
Playa Carmen
Playa Carmen is sandwiched beautifully between Playa Mal Pais and Playa Santa Teresa on the west side of the southern Nicoya Peninsula. Playa Carmen blends into Playa Santa Teresa which blends into Playa Hermosa….so with enough time on your hands you can walk the shoreline along the entire stretch. Because Playa Carmen runs parallel to a central area of the main road in Santa Teresa, it is one of the more frequented beaches. Although, at least during rainy season, it is still off-the-beaten-path enough that it’s never too busy. You won’t find crowds, parasols, beach chairs, high-rises or even restrooms haha. It’s actually illegal to build within a certain distance of the shoreline, so all the beaches on the Nicoya Peninsula are somewhat insulated from mass tourism. The sandy beaches are backed by jungle, which gives them a very natural and wild feel!
What you will find is pure magic. In the form of light tan sand, exotic looking seashells, a smattering of people - surfing, swimming and just chilling on the beach, the most gorgeous and unbelievable sunsets (like a lot of others, we planned every evening around watching the sunset from the beach), a haze in the air that gives it an ethereal vibe, and a sprinkling of low-key restaurants you can chill at and grab a drink. Playa Carmen is frequented by surfers, but with no protection from the incoming waves and some underwater rocks, it’s best for moderate to advanced surfers. One of the best parts of Playa Carmen (and not unlike the other beaches around it) is the tidepools that are revealed at low tide. The water recedes and tidepools of every shape and size are formed where you can hang out and look for sea life and shells or just relax. Just be aware because the tide can come in rather fast. While this beach is not the best for kids for swimming, they will still enjoy splashing in the surf, playing in the tidepools and on the soft sand, and exploring the jungle on the edge of the coast. Mine spent hours playing with hermit crabs, coconuts, shells and building shelters in the trees.
Playa Santa Teresa
This northern neighbor to Playa Carmen is a mecca for surfers from all over the world. It’s won numerous awards for best surf beach, but somehow it still has maintained the charm of an off-the-beaten path destination. While surfing happens all up and down the coast, Santa Teresa is the go-to spot for intermediate to advanced levels…which makes for great entertainment. I could sit for hours and watch the action out on the waves. But it also means it’s a little rough for swimming, at least at high tide. On the north end of Playa Santa Teresa you’ll find the famous tide-pools, perfect for taking a dip or snorkeling. There are endless pools of different sizes that form, but also one olympic sized swimming pool that’s perfect for swimming with no currents or waves. It’s PERFECT for kids to see all kinds of sea life, hunt for shells, explore and swim while staying super safe from the breaks and currents. One other activity Playa Santa Teresa is perfect for is…wait for it….walking! Almost every morning and every evening was spent walking the long stretch of sand, watching the waves and people, and just enjoying the views and ocean air. Many of my favorite moments of our summer were just chilling on the beach, exploring and spending time together. There’s something special about this place where you can forget all your worries and just BE. It’s truly idyllic, and will stay with you even long after you’re gone.
Playa Hermosa
Oh, Playa Hermosa. It means beautiful beach, and obviously that’s not a coincidence haha. The top thing I think about when I think of Playa Hermosa besides beauty is…surfing (well, and Blake Mykowski because we saw him there:)! Playa Hermosa is the best surfing beach near Santa Teresa for beginners (see this post for more details!). The sand slopes gently out, and the waves aren’t too crazy. Most instructors head there for lessons, and it’s where we all popped up on our first board! This idyllic beach is about 15 minutes driving north of the village of Santa Teresa, so a little more off-the-beaten path than the main beaches in town and the perfect stop if you’re looking for a quieter day on the beach. There is a little surf shop/clothing boutique and restaurant just down the path from the beach, so you can grab snacks, drinks and use the facilities there. You can also rent surfboards and bodyboards there in case you’re like us and don’t have a car to bring them from town! Playa Hermosa is backed (of course:) by the gorgeous and wild jungle - tall palms and lush green line the sand. But don’t expect shade here because if you want it, you have to make it yourself haha. Playa Hermosa is the best place for learning to surf, but also just to come chill for the day. Because the surf is a bit calmer, it’s also better for swimming and playing in the water, especially for kids! Although, as with every beach, always use caution. Oh, and while sunset is a must no matter which beach you’re at on the west coast of Costa Rica, you definitely don’t want to miss it here, so plan to stay past 6pm!
Playa Manzanillo
Start in Santa Teresa and head north along the coast about 20 minutes and you’ll arrive at the beautifully remote beach and village of Manzanillo, (not to be confused with Manzanillo on the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica) where there are usually more monkeys around than people. One of our greatest adventures during our month in Santa Teresa was renting a couple of ATVs and heading to Playa Manzanillo for the day. The road to get there requires 4WD or an ATV during rainy season, as there are portions of the road covered over with water. This only adds to the adventure, but it’s good to be prepared! Backed by palm and almendro trees, which often are filled with monkeys lazing about, you’ll feel a peaceful energy that’s hard to find. The beach has an underwater reef, which makes it calmer than the beaches closer to Santa Teresa, so it’s great for swimming and playing in the water! At low tide, an incredible tide pool reveals itself, perfect for snorkeling and exploring the coral and marine life (make sure to bring some snorkel gear!); we spent hours there, and saw our first ever stingray! The soft, tan sand is perfect for walking, seashell hunting or building sandcastles….so good in fact that there is a sandcastle building competition hosted there every year! As soon as the tide comes in and takes away the creations, everyone celebrates with drinks and good times. Sign me up!:) Playa Manzanillo is an off-the-beaten-path gem that is worth the extra effort to get to if you have a day to spend exploring the jungle and ocean. And make sure you stop by the local soda, which overlooks the beach, to grab a drink and a casado before you head back!
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