Off the Beaten Path in the Blue Zone of Costa Rica

Wander Here

Dec 13

Wander Here: Curú Wildlife Refuge, Costa Rica

We bumped along the long road from Santa Teresa, across the Nicoya Peninsula for about an hour before seeing the tiny sign and building marking the entrance to the Curu Wildlife Refuge. We had made the economic decision to keep our car only for the first week, so with only a few days left to explore on wheels, we decided to get up early on our first morning and head there to explore the country’s first national private wildlife refuge.

We pulled up and paid our entrance fee (just $10 per person!) before quickly realizing we’d be going nowhere fast. The massive herd of cows grazing in the field just past the entrance was not interested in moving for a car full of gringos gawking at them. We all got a kick out of this, and it started our afternoon off with lots of laughs (file under things that don't happen to us in the US). Rolling down our windows and politely requesting passage didn’t motivate them to budge, so we resorted to nudging a couple of the ringleaders with the front of the car...which they still did not seem at all bothered by...but gave us just enough margin to squeeze through. Welcome to Costa Rica:)

The road from the cow field to the beach ended up being one of the spots we saw the most wildlife...so magical. Tons of red and blue crabs dotted the ground, quickly disappearing into their holes when they sensed our presence. Squirrels and coati’s scampered by. Already enamoured, we continued on to find the gravel parking lot and just beyond it, the central area to the Refuge.

We had researched ahead of time and planned to take a horseback ride from the refuge to Playa Quesera, a remote beach about 5 kilometers from the entrance. It’s described as one of the most beautiful (and hard to reach) beaches on the peninsula. That alone lured me in, but the horseback riding really sealed the deal. Sadly, this was one of the first and only outings we didn't get to cross off our list because of Covid. The entire trail to Playa Quesera was closed, so instead we spent the day exploring the refuge on foot, which was not a bad plan B!

The kids couldn’t wait to jump in the ocean, so we headed straight to Playa Curu which to my surprise was super close to the parking lot. A super short walk, and we were jumping in the waves. The Nicoya Peninsula isn’t known for its kid friendly beaches, but Playa Curu is one I highly recommend for actual swimming. We spent over an hour splashing, jumping and swimming - the waves were gentle, the ocean floor sandy and the sun shining - we could have stayed right there all day.

But with so much still to explore, and with the park closing at 4, we pulled ourselves from the surf and headed toward the trails. Situated just next to the beach is a soda (Costa Rican local food), as well as small cabins where you can book tours for everything from horseback riding to bioluminescence kayaking to an overnight stay in the refuge cabins (if you stay overnight you can hang in the park as late as you want!). There is also a nice bathroom and an outdoor shower which we frequented a LOT. The casados were tasty and the facilities were adequate...but what really kept us hanging around were the iguanas. So many huge iguanas at the entrance to the refuge - more than we saw anywhere else! Completely fascinated by them, we couldn’t get enough.

Several different trails of different lengths and difficulties wind through the jungle just next to the beach, so we set out to explore! With time on our side, we took one of the longer trails, which led us through the quiet of the jungle. One of the perks of Nicoya is it’s off-the-beaten-path. So while other national parks (Manuel Antonio for instance) in the country are more on the crowded side, we barely saw any other people on our hike. It took a bit before we spotted any wildlife, but it wasn’t too long before we ran into a troop of monkeys up in the trees, an agouti, more crabs, spiders, leaf cutter ants (the kids fave!)...and of course lizards. It was on our last leg of the hike, that we were strung along the trail, me several yards behind Jon, when I heard shouting. He and Elo had come around a bend and came head to head with a deer, which was spooked and took off up the trails, nearly trampling Eloise before bounding into the trees. An encounter I know she’ll never forget!

We hit up the beach one last time before closing down the park...the only ones in sight, there is just something about having an entire, beautiful beach all to yourself that is unforgettable.

The last time it happened was in Hong Island Thailand...the evidence of that magical evening lives in a frame on our mantle but may just have to be replaced now.

Wildlife, waves, an authentic Costa Rican meal...Curu Wildlife Refuge was everything we expected and more! It’s the perfect day trip from anywhere on the Nicoya Peninsula, and is perfect for kids or anyone who wants a gentler experience in the surf and jungle hiking.

Guide to Curú Wildlife Refuge, Costa Rica

Cost

Entrance to the park is $10 per person / boat tours + horse-back riding tours are extra of course. Check out the park website curuwildliferefuge.com for tour info and booking.

Hours

8am - 4pm. Get there early because the hours go by fast and you have to be out of the park by 4. We did not rent a cabin, but if you do you can explore the park as late as you want and even swim in the bay where there is often bioluminescence!

Facilities

There are bathrooms with indoor showers as well as outdoor showers to rinse off...another reason Curu is perfect for families! Food and drinks are available at the Soda near the entrance.

What to Pack

Sunscreen, blanket for the beach, towels, snacks for hiking, water for the trail, bug spray (we didn’t have to use ours, but always be prepared:), hats/sunglasses, camera, bandaids (obvi;), cash

Things to Know

Don’t plan on swimming in the rivers - alligators have been spotted!